Well, the Murphy bed has been hacked and built.

And Anji wrote all about it here!  Here are the plans:

Many, many of you have requested the Murphy Bed Plans, and I have been wanting to draw up a plan for quite some time.  One problem: how to build the Murphy Bed without forcing you to spend $300 on the hardware alone.  If you don’t mind spending $300 on the hardware, you can find plans here to match the hardware.

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The only thing is you need to have the special hardware to have the bed elevated off the floor.  But if you are just using this bed occasionally, for example when guests come to visit, having the mattress rest on the floor should not be an issue.  And so I decided to draw up plans that anyone can afford to build.  You can alternately use the plans linked above if you would like your bed elevated.

Dimensions and Composition are show above.

Shopping List

1 – Sheet of 1/2″ Plywood or MDF
3 – 1×12, 8′ Long
1 – 1×8, 8′ Long
1 – 1×4, 8′ Long
1 – 1×3, 8′ Long
3 – 1×2, 8′ Long
2″ Screws
2″ Nails
1 1/4″ Nails
5/8″ Brad Nails
Wood Filler
Sand Paper
1/4″ Thick Hobby Boards
Hinges (preferably heavy duty door hinges or continuous piano hinge)
Heavy duty magnetic clasp to keep the bed from falling open
Optional compression hinges to slowly lower the bed in place


Screwgun with countersink and drill bits
Nailer that shoots 2″ nails
Hammer if your nailer does not shoot 5/8″ nails

Cut List for the “Box”

2 – 1×12 @ 78 1/2″ (Sides)
1 – 1×12 @ 42 1/4″ (Bottom)
2 – 1×4 @ 42 1/4″ (Back Supports)
1 – 1×2 @ 43 3/4″ (Front Support Trim, Top)
2 – 1×2 @ 77″ (Side Trim)
2 – 1×2 @ 12 1/4″ (Top Side Trim)
1 – 1×2 @ 45 1/4″ (Front Top Trim)
1 – 1×3 @ 47 1/4″ (Top, Back)
1 – 1×12 @ 47 1/4″ (Top, Front)

Cut List for the “Bed”

1 – 1/2″ Plywood @ 40 1/2″ x 76 1/2″ (Back)
1 – 1×8 @ 40 1/2″ (Bottom)
1 – 1×8 @ 55″ (Cut Length wise at a diagonal as shown in the plan to get 2)
Trim as desired with 1/4″ thick hobby stock

General Instructions. Work on a clean level surface.  Use proper safety precautions and equipment.  Take a square of your project after each step.  Use good straight boards.  Countersink and predrill all of your screw holes before fastening.

1.  Build the Box. Using the 2″ screws and glue, fasten the sides to the bottom.

2.  Back Supports. Fasten the back supports to the box, flush with the top and back.  Also fasten through the bottom of the box into the bottom support.  Use 2″ screws and glue.

3.  Front Support. Fasten the front support to the box as shown above. Top edges are flush.  Use 2″ screws and glue.

4.  Side Trim. Using 2″ nails and glue, fasten the side trim to the box.  Outside edges are flush.  You will need to also fasten to the bottom of the box and fasten through the top of the top trim into the top end edge of the side trim.

5.  Side Trim. Fasten the side trim to the sides, using 1 1/4″ nails and glue.  Top edges are flush.

6.  Front Top Trim. Fasten the front top trim in place using 1 1/4″ nails and glue.  Keep top and outside edges flush.  Use 2″ nails on the ends to fasten to the side trim and the sides.

7.  Top, Back. Using 2″ nails and glue, fasten the top back piece to the top, leaving 1″ overhang both ends.  Back will be flush.

8.  Top, Front.  Leaving a 1″ overhang on front and sides, attach the top as you did the top in step 7.

9.  Mattress Box. Build the mattress box by using 2″ screws to screw the bottom 1×8 board to the plywood bottom.  Use glue.  Then fasten the sides to the bottom and the back using 2″ screws and glue.  The sides are simply the scrap 1/8, cut at a diagonal to create two boards.  You can cut with a jigsaw or a circular saw.

10.  Door Decorations. Using 1/4″ thick hobby stock, fasten your desired door pattern to the face of the door (mattress bottom).  Secure with glue, 5/8″ nails and clamps and let dry.  Dimensions shown are for the sample pattern above.

11.  Hardware. Use the hinges to attach the mattress box to the wall box as shown above.  You should also use a clasp to keep the door from falling open when shut.  You can also use support hinges to keep the door from free falling open when unlatched.

12.  Finishing. Fill any nail or screw holes with wood filler and sand and finish as desired.

13.  Installation. You will need to use screws to fasten through the 1×4 support boards into a stud in the back wall.  This recommended on the top and bottom.  Also recommended is a wide elastic strap secured to the plywood door to keep the top of the mattress in place when the door is closed.

Fits a standard twin mattress 39″ x 75″

***In return for providing you with free furniture plans, I request that you add comments on your building experience to assist other building the same projects. Please add reactions to help others and post relevant questions as comments. Photos of your work is greatly appreciated to add to my bragging board! See Contact Me button for email instructions.***

***Some rights reserved. Private use only. Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of the publisher, Ana White, Knock Off Wood

***While I do strive to produce accurate plans, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post have I had the opportunity to build myself. Some plans have not been tested. It is recommended that you draw out the plans and have a clear understanding of how the project will fit together before begining. I hope that if you do find a flaw in any plans, you will contact me immediately***